| By 1877, the bustle had diminished from the wire frames of earlier, to a small pad or nothing at all. The poufs in the skirts dropped to behind the knees. The bodices became long and smooth fitting over the hips, in a style known as the Cuirass. Also fashionable is the Princess Dress, where the bodice and skirt are all in one without a waist seam. Giving long lines from shoulder to ankle.
The horizontal look of earlier was giving way to ever more vertical lines. A tall, slim figure was considered fashionable. Skirts that clung to the legs (scandalous) known as tie-back skirts were all the rage. These skirts had tie strings inside to hold the front close to the legs, leaving the back free to flow into a train. Colors and textures were mixed into complicated creations of skirts, swags, and drapes. The main focus is on the skirts, with simpler trims on the bodice. Almost every dress is trained, sometimes even walking dresses. Asymmetrical skirts are all the rage, and trims and swags are put on high on one side and low on the other. |
 1877 – Journal Des Demoiselles |
 1877 – Revue De La Mode |
 1878 – La Mode Illustre |
 1878 – La Mode Illustre |
 1878 – Review de la Mode |
| The detached overskirt looses favor as most of the complicated drapes are sewn directly to the foundation skirt. Flowers and bows can help decorate and hide where the skirts are tacked together. Evening bodices are more on-the-shoulder than off, with small puffed sleeves, ruffled lace, or no sleeves at all. Every year the skirts become narrower and the bodices longer. By 1879, the fan skirt was the mode. The back of the skirt is confined to just about knee height, and then allowed to flow out in a full, fan-shaped train. Petticoats, and even hoops, were required to hold the “fan” in a good shape. |
 1879 – La Mode Illustre |
 1879 – Review de la Mode |
 1880 – La Journal Des Modes |
 1881 July – La Monde Elegant |
 1881 June – La Monde Elegant |
| Necklines for day wear become more conservative, either high with a collar, or open in a small “V”. Most often an open neckline would be filled with a linen collar on a small chemisette.
The bodices see more vertical trimmings, they no longer just go around the neckline, but can extend down the center front to the waist or lower. By 1880, the skirts are very slim and the train begins to disappear except for formal occasions. “Pannier” drapes at the hips are all the rage in France, adding fullness to the figure. |
 1881 August – La Monde Elegant |
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 1881 May – La Monde Elegant |
 1881 – La Mode Elegante Illustrada |
 1882 January – La Monde Elegant |
 1882 – Jounal des Demoiselles |
 1882 March – La Monde Elegant |
 1882 October – La Monde Elegant |