In 1883, the bustle came back with a vengeance.  The skirts remained slim in front and sides, but the back ballooned out over a bustle framework.

The lines start as a blend of horizontal and vertical, and over the next couple of years become ever more vertical

The bodice shortened back up to above the hip at the sides. The sleeve head is now high on the shoulder. Bead work and braid forming motifs begin to cover the flat portions of garments


1883 – La Mode Parisienne


1883 – Journal Des Demoiselles


1883 – La Mode Parisienne


1883 – La Mode Parisienne
Evening dresses are all high on the shoulder, and often without any sleeve.

The back draperies are usually lifted high into poufs. All skirts are floor length except very formal wear.
Soon, poufs, swags and drapes became an art form in itself. As the drapery became more complicated, the amount of trimmings declined, as there were fewer flat places to put them. Trimmings of fur and fringe or other edges finishings gain popularity.


1883 – Journal Des Demoiselles

1883 – La Mode Parisienne

1884 – La Mode Parisienne

1884 – La Mode Parisienne

1884 – Magazin des Demoiselles
Asymmetrical lines are still very popular. The daytime neckline becomes very high, with a collar. Even at dinner, the neckline is more conservative.  A more tailored look appears with shawl collars and reveres added to the bodices to simulate vests and jackets.
The sleeve gains fullness near the shoulder, but remains fitted below.

The bustle reaches maximum size in 1887-88, but soon after dwindles away to almost nothing by 1889. The swags and poufs give way to simpler and plainer skirts. As the skirts get narrower, the sleeve head starts to get larger; a foretelling of the huge sleeves of the 1890s.


1886 June – Der Bazar

1886 July – Der Bazar

1887 – Dec La mode Francaise.

1887 – Dec La mode Francaise.

1888 Feb – Journal Des Demoiselles

1888 Sept – Journal Des Demoiselles

1889 Feb – Journal Des Demoiselles

1889 Sept – Jounal des Demoiselles<